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 What, you may wonder, is the link between a crocodile, a pair of jeans, and a 5-day carnival as vibrant as anything you’ll find this side of Rio? Answer: Nîmes, whose 2000 year-old history has produced a gem of a city whose very stones exude a mellowness and warmth that no visitor can deny.
Here, nestling between Provence, the Camargue and the Cévennes mountains, you are constantly reminded that you are in the heart of Roman France. The city’s coat of arms still incorporates a crocodile chained to a palm tree, commemorating the defeat of Mark Anthony on the Nile by the Emperor Augustus, who rewarded his legionaries with grants of land in the flourishing colony of Provence.
From the Jardin de la Fontaine with its shady walks and balustraded pools, climb the hill to the Tour Magne, a great octagonal tower once part of the Roman fortifications, from where you get a panoramic view of the city and its surroundings.
The magnificent amphitheatre, built in the first century to accommodate 23,000 people, is one of the best preserved in the Roman world. Gladiatorial combats and naval battles have generally given way to more cultured forms of entertainment, which take place all year round thanks to the installation of a removable roof, a 21st century version of the original Roman awnings.
Nearby is the Maison Carrée, a temple originally built as part of the forum, which has been in almost continuous use for the past 2000 years, although not always for religious purposes, it has to be said.
But Nîmes is not all temples and togas. In the Middle Ages, the wool and silk industries brought considerable wealth to the city, along with another claim to fame. For it was here that a particularly adaptable type of serge material originated and was exported all over Europe. “De Nîmes”, hence denim, found its way to America in 1870 and the rest, as they say, is history.
The 17th and 18th centuries gave the city its honey coloured mansions and town houses, with secluded courtyards and ornate staircases. They border a maze of pedestrianised streets and small squares where it is always a pleasure to browse or stop for an aperitif, preferably a pastis, or a meal accompanied by a glass or two of the local Costières de Nîmes.
There is never a lack of events and entertainments going on in Nîmes, the most spectacular being the Feria, a 5-day Whitsuntide carnival of parties and paella with a flamenco accent. It’s a heady mixture of colourful, traditional costumes, and black bulls contrasting with the white horses of the Camargue guardians. Unmissable!
Throughout the summer, Thursday night is Market night, when stalls devoted to a particular theme such as crafts, painting or local products, are set up in the city squares against a musical backdrop.
Events:
6 – 14 November 2004
NIMAGINE Arts and Crafts Fair
4 – 12 December, 2004
Antiques Fair
In addition, regular exhibitions take place at the “Carré d’Art” Museum of Contemporary Art, a striking structure of glass and steel designed by Sir Norman Foster and overlooking the site of the Roman forum.
For details of forthcoming events in Nimes visit www.ot-nimes.fr
How to get there:
Take Eurostar to Lille or Paris and connect with one of the many TGV services straight to the heart of Nîmes. Just sit back, relax and watch the landscape change as you head south through Burgundy, the Rhone Valley and Provence. You can even break your journey in Lille or Paris for 24 hours if you choose.
Standard class fares from London start from as little as £109* return, or travel in first class from £189* return and enjoy even more space and comfort.
And don’t forget, trains will take you from Nîmes to visit many other places in the region such as Montpellier, Nimes, Arles and Marseille.
* Terms & conditions apply.
Useful links:
Tourist information www.ot-nimes.fr
Short breaks
For details of inclusive packages from £276, visit www.frenchtravelservice.co.uk
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